Epic Albania Road Trip Guide – Car insurance? Budget? Is it SAFE?

Albania, Road Trip Guide /

This Albania Road Trip Guide contains an itinerary for 14 days of traveling through Albania. All details about entering with your own car from the EU into Albania are included.

Are you crazy? Is mostly the reaction that I got when I told people I would do a road trip in Albania. Not only because it was Albania the country of blood feud (or Gjakmarrja) and maffia (their words, not mine) also because we would drive there from Brussels. Now, 5800 km further, we are back in Brussels, Belgium and I never felt so alive and satisfied after visiting a country so beautiful. There hasn’t been any moment that I felt unsafe moreover I never felt so welcomed by the locals in a country.

SOME GENERAL KNOWLEDGE ABOUT ALBANIA

  • Capital: Tirana
  • Currency: Albanian Lek
  • Population: 2,8 million (2021)
  • Language: Albanian (Except for the rural areas English is pretty common)
  • Most roads are pretty decent, there are some potholes like anywhere in the Balkan, but usually it’s OK. The left lane is used for driving while the right lane is used for wrong parked cars. Also, drivers don’t usually use their blinkers in Albania unless when they are parked wrong somewhere. Overall the traffic was alright! After a few days of driving there I got really used to it. Just go with the flow!

1. SHKODER IN ALBANIA

Shkoder or Shkodra was our first stop on our road trip through Albania. It is just next to the border with Montenegro and surrounded by beautiful nature. This city has been civilized by ancient Romans and Greeks in the past, also it was an important trading hub for thousands of years.

WHERE to STAY IN SHKODER

  • Hotel Kurtabeg: very budget friendly hotel with private bathrooms that is located right in the center just behind the theatre (Teatri Migjeni)

WHAT to do IN SHKODER

Rozafa Fortress

Entrance: 200 Leke OR 1,5 EUR


This fortress is located on a rock about 130 meters above sea level. Originally built by the Venetians and later rebuild by the Turks. The castle’s name comes from a woman who was allegedly walled into the walls as an offering to the gods so that the construction would stand. That woman asked to leave 2 holes in the walls so she could continue to breastfeed her baby, a statue that represents this story can be seen near the entrance. While walking through the castle’s ruins, keep your eyes on the ground for the turtles that are walking freely.

When we arrived at the castle in the street below as the parking near the castle was pretty full. It was just a 15 minute walk to get up to the castle and along the way there was a musician playing some typical balkan accordeon music, also a small souvenir shop with very affordable products.

If you saw already many castles in Europe the Rozafa fortress probably won’t impress you that much. The only thing I could say is that it’s significantly larger than most fortresses I had visited before and there are some pretty nice views from up there! After about 2h strolling around we had a drink at a small cosy bar inside the castle and went back to Shkodra city.

Musician at the entrance of Rozafa Castle

Lake Shkodra


This lake forms the natural border between Montenegro and Albania. It is the biggest lake of the Balkan with a surface are of around 400 km². Kayaks can be rented to spend some time on the water or if you prefer walking, hiking trails are available around the lake. Lake Shkodra resort offers camping and glamping options.

We didn’t spend that much time around the lake. What I would advise though is to drive about 15 minutes from Shkodra (or 10 minutes from Rozafa Castle) to the small town Shiroka (or Shirokë) and enjoy a beautiful sunset while eating a local fish dish.

Tour to Theth

20 EUR (return ticket)

While researching a road trip through Albania it is inevitable that someone will mention the tiny picturesque village of Theth. Theth or Thethi is a village in the Albanian Alps about 75 km from Shkodra. It is declared a Protected Historic Center by the Albanian government. The surrounding area is known as the Theth National Park.
The hotel where we stayed Kurtabeg also organises trips to the small and cosy village Theth in the middle of the Albanian Alps. We were doubting wether we should use our own car or just pay 20 EUR (return ticket from Shkodra) for the driver who had a 4×4 jeep, luckily we chose the latter! I would absolutely not recommend you to use your own car to drive to Theth! Roads are not asphalted and even with a jeep it gets very bumpy.

We left in Shkodra around 8AM and after about a 3h30 drive, with a small coffee break in the middle, we arrived in Theth. We didn’t do a lot of research on Theth and it seemed that this town mostly consisted of hotels and guesthouses, all build in a very cosy traditional way.

We walked to the Grunas waterfall which is about 45 minutes walking from the church of Theth. All the time it was a bit guessing how to get there so I’ll give a brief explanation: To find the way just try to find a walking way to the Lock-in tower near the end of the village and after that follow the only walkway there is. You will pass a small restaurant/picnic spot and then it’s about 20 minutes more. I wish I could say follow the signs but from our experience markings on walkways are not everywhere present in Albania.

The driver was leaving again at 2PM so we had to go back immediately to the center of Theth to go back to Shkodra. If you are planning this tour, try to stay at least 1 night in Theth and drive back the next day because we only had about 2h30 minutes in Theth which was absolutely not enough to explore this beautiful town surround by the Albanian Alps. Even better would be to drive to Theth, spend 1 night then hike to Valbona, spend 1 night, then take the Koman Ferry from Valbona to Koman and from there get a ride back to Shkodra.

Church of Theth with a stunning mountain backdrop

Enjoy some time on the Shkodra Promenade

800m long cobblestoned walkway just next to the stunning Ebu Bekr Mosque that is packed with restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and local artisanries. You can also find the Marubi National Museum of Photography here.
We had dinner on several occasions on the Shkodra promenade. On this Italian influenced walking-only street you can find beautiful bars and restaurants. If you’re tight on budget I would suggest to walk a few blocks further to find a restaurant. We had some delicious food at restaurant Puri which has very decent local food at an affordable price, also their breakfast is one of the best. From around 9AM you can see locals waiting in line to get their breakfast here.

Lake Koman ferry to Lumi Shales

20 EUR (return ticket)

Lake Koman is a man-made lake fed by the Drin, Shala and Valbona river. Water is crystal clear and it is surrounded by beautiful green mountains. Daily ferries go from Koman to Fierze and are very popular for backpackers. Some local people use the ferries to get to villages that are only accessible by water.
We had this tour booked but cancelled it, sadly enough, because of the weather that day. The hotel where we were staying organised tours for 20 euro to the Lumi Shales river beach which is accessible via the Koman Ferry. The price from Shkodra to Koman ferry station is 5 EUR, the ferry 1-way to Lumi Shales is also 5 EUR and then the same to go back. Usually they leave around 6:30 AM and you would be back at 5PM approximately.

When we visit Albania again we will use the Koman Ferry to go to Valbona to hike then to Theth, this is a very common journey where you hike through the beautiful nature of the Albanian Alps.

The stylish WANRD PRVKE 21l, has been my daily adventure backpack for over 3 years now.

Check out the WANDRD website for their other bags as well.

For multi-day trips I use the WANDRD Fernweh 50l backpack!

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2. BERAT IN ALBANIA

Another town that shouldn’t be left out on your Albania road trip itinerary is Berat. Berat was the second stop on our road trip. It is located in the center of Albania with the Osumi river flowing through the city. It has a beautiful castle (Kala) and an old town with very charming houses. Within 1h driving distance you can reach the Tomorr National Park.

WHERE to stay IN BERAT

  • Guesthouse Aleksander: just outside the center of Berat you can stay with Gentjan and his lovely family. I absolutely recommend staying here if you enjoy hanging out with locals. Gentjan is a guide in and around Berat so he can definitely tell you some great stories!
    • Price: 30 EUR/night with breakfast included
    • Location: Starove, Berat Private House (700 m after the center of the village following the main road), 5012 Berat, Albania 
    • Contact info: book here by simply sending a message on https://www.facebook.com/GuesthouseAleksander or https://www.booking.com/hotel/al/guest-house-aleksander.html

WHAT TO DO IN BERAT

The Kala of berat

Fortress that was build originally in 300 but the wall and the towers as they are now were built in the 1200s. Until today there are still homes and local businesses within the castle’s walls.

Wander around Mangalem and Gorica

These old neighborhoods are located on each side of the Osumi river, on the North-side traditionally Muslim Mangalem and on the South-side Christian Gorica. Ancient white stone houses with terracotta tiles and timber doors can be found in both districts. These are connected by the Gorica bridge that was build in 1780. There is a story about a secret dungeon on the bridge where a girl was held captured to please the spirits who watched over the crossing.

Bulevardi Republika

This street is located in the modern part of Berat and it is the ‘happening’ street with plenty of bars and restaurants. The beautiful Tomorr mountain can be seen in the background.

The Red Mosque

Located just outside ‘The Kala’, these mosque ruins date back to the 1430s and is one of Albania’s oldest mosques.

Tomorr Mountain

The highest peak in the Tomorr Mountain National Park 2416 meters. Hiking to the top can be hard because of the high temperatures in the summer. 4×4 excursions are organised from Berat.

Osumi river Gorge

Just south of the Tomorr National Park in the town of Çorovodë the cliffs can be hundreds of meters high which makes for spectacular landscapes.

Kasabashi Bridge

The Bridge of Kasabash is near of town of Çorovodë,in the district of Skrapar. The bridge was built in 1640 by famous Turkish Empire architect Kasemi.

Bogova Waterfall

Located in the village of Bogove is this beautifull waterfall. It’s about 45 minutes hiking from the village.

Best travel agency IN BERAT?

We did the Bogova Waterfall and Osumi Canyons tour with 1001 Albanian Adventures and I must say it was one of the best experiences we had in Albania! The office of 1001 Albanian Adventures can be found right in the center. This is the address: Rruga Mihal Komnena, Berat, Albania (at the bottom of the street from the castle to the center on the corner). Or just give them a call: +355 69 883 1536 and let them know I’ve sent you 😉

3. VLORË IN ALBANIA

The third stop in on our road trip was Vlorë or Vlora. It is the sixt largest city in Albania and was, after the indepence in 1912, the first capital from Albania. Nowadays the city is mostly known for the surrounding beaches and the proximity to the beautifull Llogara National Park.

WHERE to stay IN VLORË

  • Pension Family Holiday: Lovely hotel ran by a friendly Albanian family right across the beach!

WHAT to do IN VLORË

Because we only had two days in Vlora and one of those two days it was raining we didn’t explore much. However I will provide some information about the possibilities in Vlora:

Gjipe Beach

Definitely my favorite beach in Albania. It is considered as a secret beach because it’s quite difficult to access with the car. In fact is not so secret but still less crowded than most other beaches. To get there the only possibility is to park your car at the closest parking for a small fee. After parking your car you need to walk approximately 25 minutes along a dirt road towards the beach. Beautiful views along the way! On the way back we even spotted some dolphins which was an incredible experience! Once you arrive at the beach there is a restaurant and a bar. Camping is also allowed, I’m not sure what the price is for this but I’m sure it would be quite a unique experience. If I ever go back to Albania this in my top 3 of things to do!

To get to this beach from Vlora you need to cross the Llogara pass which guarantees stunning views but will consume quite a lot of time. We drove about 1h from Vlora to Gjipe. As an extra, I would advise to leave on time so you don’t have to cross the Llogara pass in the dark! It might be a better option to stay in Dhermï for a few nights to check out both Gjipe beach and Dhermï beach and the old town!

Gjipe Beach in Albania

Llogara National Park

We drove several times through the park and every time we were thinking: “we should’ve had more time to explore this beautiful region”. It is possible to do paragliding here. Landing is at Palasë Beach.

Dhërmi Beach + Old town

Some Albanians warned me that everything is a bit pricier in Dhërmi and there was a bit of a difference indeed but in my opinion it was definitly worth a visit! The beach was not overly crowded and there’s a long walking strip along the beach with cosy restaurants & bars. We went around 1PM in July and it was surprisingly quiet everywhere. Afterwards we went to check out the old town which was absolutely stunning! It reminded me a bit of Santorini because of the architecture with the only difference that there was literally nobody around. The town roads were under construction so expect a completely traditionally rebuild town by 2021 (I guess?).

Church view in the old town of Dhermi

Zvernec Monastery + surrounding area

Only later I discovered the existence of this beautiful place and apparently it was very close to our guesthouse. This monastery can only be reached by a 275m long wooden bridge and lies next to the Narta lagoon. In the town of Zvernec most people speak Greek.

Muradie Mosque

The mosque was built in the 16th century located in downtown Vlora on a central square, surrounded on all four sides with roads.

Kaninë Castle

An in the 3rd century B.C. built fortress that lies 350m above sea level and for that reason beautiful sea views are guaranteed!

4. KSAMIL IN ALBANIA

Our fourth road trip stop was at the Ksamil islands. These are in the most southern area of the Albanian riviera and by far the most crowded one as well. Expect accomodation and food prices to be much higher than anywhere else in Albania! There are more quiet beaches around Ksamil but in general it was very hard to find a spot on the beach. Just next to Ksamil there is the ancient architectural site called Butrint National Park. Even though I think it’s a very touristy area I would still suggest to stay 2 o 3 nights in the area during your road trip in Albania.

WHERE TO STAY IN KSAMIL

WHAT TO DO IN KSAMIL

Ksamil beach

One of the only sandy beaches in Albania. Everywhere around the town of Ksamil you can find beautiful beaches and bars, we didn’t spend much time here as it was very crowded and as in most places in Albania you have to use the chairs provided on the beach.

Plazhi i Pasqyrave or mirror beach

This beach was recommended to us by the people at our hotel and it was quite beautiful indeed! The beach consists of 2 parts and the best and most quiet part is a bit difficult to access. Basically there are 2 options to get there. You drive your car all the way down, park and then grab all your stuff and walk left a bit along the coast line through the water and you arrive at the quiet area. Another way is to park your car on top of the cliffs and walk all the way down a steep path, a rusty metal stair and you arrive. There’s also a restaurant that serves delicious food! Chairs were available on the beach and enough space to swim and relax! Highly recommend this beach around Ksamil!

Butrint National Park

Entrance feel is 700 leke or 5,6 EUR
The national park’s highlight is the Butrint Archeological site, it is one of the most important of its kind in the country and marked as a UNESCO world heritage site. Furthermore the national park consists of freshwater lakes, wetlands, salt marshes, open plains, reed beds and islands. It is also possible to take a ferry to the Venetian Triangle Castle.

Cocktail Bar Bianco Lounge

This cocktail bar is located right next to the Ksamil beaches and has a rooftop bar with a 360 degrees view. We went there for sunset and it was spectacular!

5. GJIROKASTER IN ALBANIA

Gjirokaster or Gjirokastra is one of the oldest cities of Albania and has all the ingredients that an old city needs: a beautiful old town with cobble stoned streets and a fortress (that is worth visiting)!

WHERE to stay IN GJIROKASTER

  • Guest House Garden: Stay with your favorite Albanian grand parents for an attractive price!

WHAT TO DO IN GJIROKASTER

Syri i Kaltër or The Blue Eye

Entrance: 200 Leke OR 1,5 EUR


When driving from Ksamil to Gjirokaster you will pass by the blue eye. This is an underground water source that has a very distinct blue color. It feeds the Bistricë river and is probably more than 50 meters deep! Further more I can tell you also that the water is ice-cold!

Gjirokastër Fortress

Entrance: 200 Leke OR 1,5 EURA castle that was built in the 12th century and is marked as a UNESCO world heritage site, it has a very apparent and beautiful clock tower.

STROLL AROUND OLD TOWN

Explore the old town, it has a bazaar with antique shops and historical buildings everywhere. You can easily get lost here for an afternoon!

Ice cold water from the Blue eye in the South of Albania

6. SHKODRA IN ALBANIA

For our sixth and last stop during the most epic Albania road trip ever we came back to Shkodra. We absolutely wanted to see the beautiful town of Theth (description can be found at the first section of this blogpost) we stopped here for our 2 last nights in Albania. We stayed again at Hotel Kurtabeg and they organised the tour to Theth for us. After 2 nights here it was time to leave Albania and head to our next destination.

how expensive is it to travel IN ALBANIA?

In total spread over 15 days I have spent about 500 EUR and this is gasoline not included. This only covers the costs in Albania so not including costs made in other countries. Also consider that most hotel/guesthouse prices were divided by 2. So if you’re going alone the price might be a bit higher.

1000 EUR for 2 people would be what you could expect to spend for a 15-day trip in Albania.

We didn’t go to luxury resorts but we didn’t go to the cheapest hotels either.

A comfy hotel costs on an average 20 – 35 EUR a night. A decent meal with drinks ranges from 5 – 20 EUR.

I hope this blog post helps you to plan your own trip to Albania. If you have more questions or suggestions send me a DM on my socials or an email to timtense@gmail.com

Enjoy your travels!

Another road trip guide that you might be interested in: Epic Slovakia Road Trip Guide – Beyond Bratislava And The Tatras!

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